When our daughters finally nagged my husband and me into a trip to Disneyland
Paris, I scoured the internet for “bargain” breaks with a sense of doom. Our
previous theme-park visits had been rough approximations of a 1950s alien
invasion movie — lots of hysterical screaming, trampling mobs and,
ultimately, a mad rush for the exit.
This time, I wanted something different: a family break the children would
enjoy but, damn it, so would I. That meant finding some five-star pampering
and saying goodbye (and good riddance) to our budget.
There is plenty of good standard accommodation on offer for visitors to
Disneyland, east of Paris. Disney itself has seven hotels in the vicinity.
These include the Hotel Cheyenne, with a western “saloon” theme, and the
Newport Bay, which has a nautical theme and its own lake.
Most important, Disney hotels guarantee children “quality time” with the
best-known characters. At mealtimes, Pluto, Goofy or Minnie will come and
shake hands with babies and parents alike; in the reception area, they pose
for family photos and hugs.
We arrive in a state of cheery excitement, having left the car at home and had
an uneventful (oh bliss!) train journey. Outside the Victorian splendour of
the Disneyland Hotel, our bags are whisked away by bellboys dressed like
extras from a Goofy cartoon, all yellow plus fours and crisp white shirts.
Alexandra and Holly immediately dart into the palatial foyer, filled with
shrieking children dressed as cowboys or princesses.
“Stop. Come back!” we shout.
“Do not worreee,” smiles the concierge, “Zees ees Disney. Eet’s okay.”
Inside the hotel, there’s a Mickey Shopping Galerie, a health club and a Mad
Hatter’s Game Arcade, not to mention the Minnie Club — a children’s centre
that runs till 10pm to allow parents to dine on their own.
As for cuisine, the restaurants boast excellent fine wines and refined,
elegant dining — visits from Pinocchio et al notwithstanding.
The Castle Club has 48 rooms and 17 suites, somehow managing to be cute and
grand at the same time. Our room is one of the Tinkerbell suites, bedecked,
to greet our arrival, with free children’s gifts and something for the
adults, too. Our daughters grab their Minnie Mouse cuddly toys, caps and
pencil cases. Craig opens the chilled Taittinger.
On the balcony, we stare, champagne flutes in hand, across Disneyland. It’s
dusk: beneath twinkling lights, families head home with balloons and bags.
Beyond Main Street, a red steam train toots. On a hill, in the distance, the
pink towers and blue turrets of Sleeping Beauty’s chateau glitter sweetly.
“To the Mouse.” We raise our glasses and kiss (something I never expect on a
family holiday).
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During our two-day visit to the park itself, we have a VIP tour guide to show
us around. The guides are provided free of charge to European footballers
and the like. Everyone else can book a similar service for £218 for four
hours — the guides customise each visit, arranging special seating for
parades and live stage shows, and bookings at any of the restaurants.
Bala, our guide, like all Disney staff, wears a costume. His is a smart black
suit with a yellow tie and — as it looks like rain — a long black umbrella.
He takes us down in the hotel lift. When the doors open, we are at the
turnstiles to the park: no long walk, no traffic jams. Holly has been
sucking her thumb, asking to be carried. Straightaway, the trams, the
flowers, the pastel shops begin to work their charm. Off she skips with her
sister: “Mummy Look! Mary Poppins and Daisy Duck!” Our guide is like a
Disney marriage-guidance counsellor. His knowledge of the attractions and
park layout takes the stress out of our visit. Usually, by mid-morning Craig
and I are at each other’s throats over what to see and where to eat. There
are no arguments over the map this time.
Bala asks Alex and Holly what they like. “Fairies and princesses,” they chime.
Off we go to Fantasyland, designed with little girls in mind. First we take
Peter Pan’s Flight, followed by Pinocchio’s Voyage, then we go twice around
Dumbo the Flying Elephant. The long (and, it has to be said, pointless) race
around Alice in Wonderland’s maze is enough girlie stuff for Craig, who
starts to look bored. Bala leads us to Discovery (big boy) Land. Taking our
girls’ hands, he virtually shoves Craig and me onto Space Mountain: Mission
2. It’s a rollercoaster ride, arguably the park’s most hair-raising. The
girls seem happy for us to have fun — so we stay on and do it again.
At 6.30 each night, tired from walking all the way to Frontierland,
Adventureland and back again, and with arm ache from waving at Disney
characters, we drop the girls off at the Minnie Club. Here they can draw,
colour and play with other kids, equally high on endless sugar and
stimulation.
Alone in the suite, I take a hot bath. In the delightful surreal confines of a
room decorated to the tastes of a nine-year-old girl, I find myself admiring
the bathroom’s pink tiles. Each one has a hippo from Fantasia in the middle.
After 72 hours on planet Disney, that doesn’t seem in the least bit childish
or icky.
Just once, everyone in my family is happy all at the same time. Me, in the
peace of an empty hotel suite, Craig in the bar, sampling Scotches with the
other dads. And the girls? They’re watching a Disney film in the Minnie
Club, wondering how they can persuade us to “move here for ever”.
- Lauren Booth travelled as a guest of Disneyland Paris and Eurostar
Getting there: Eurostar (0870 518 6186, www.eurostar.com) has
return tickets from Waterloo to Disneyland Paris from £89 (£50 for
children aged 4-11). Or fly to Paris Charles de Gaulle with British
Airways (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com), EasyJet (www.easyjet.com) or Aer
Lingus (www.aerlingus.ie); or to Beauvais with Ryanair
(www.ryanair.com).
Getting inside: a day ticket to the park costs £30 (£24 for
children aged 3-11). Call 0870 503 0303 or visit
www.disneylandparis.com.
The Disney hotels: for a four-person room at the Disneyland
Hotel, prices start at £418 per adult and £156 per child, based on two
adults and two children aged 3-11 sharing and including two nights’
accommodation, breakfast, return Eurostar travel and three days’
entrance to the park. For a Castle Club room, prices start at £511 per
adult and £156 per child.
There’s currently a “Kids travel free on Eurostar” package. One child aged
4-11 can travel free with each paying adult until June 30 (excluding
travel between May 27 and June 4). Prices for a family of two adults and
two children (aged 3-11), staying at Disney’s Hotel Santa Fe (0870 503
0303, www.disneylandparis.com), start at £620 for two nights.
