As the rings around any self-respecting fashionista's calendar should show,
the only catwalk collections that matter on Planet Fashion are those
unveiled during the international circuit of the Big Four, London, Paris,
New York and Milan.
Twice a year, before every new season, each of the four cities observes the
same unwritten timetable to host its own fashion week, striving to impress
the celebrity circus of buyers, editors and retailers with a showcase of big
names, and even bigger price tags, while staking its own claim as supreme
fashion capital of the world.
Now, however, it could be Birkin bags at dawn. The organisers of New York
Fashion Week are preparing for a catfight of prima donna proportions, after
announcing that their preview will start one week later than usual next
season, clashing directly with its British rival.
The move has caused panic at London Fashion Week, usually second in the
running order, which could face being cut to as little as three days.
The problem? The starting dates for Milan Fashion Week, which follows hot on
London's Louboutin heels, and Paris immediately after that, are
non-negotiable, leaving London with little room for manoeuvre.
Strict production and delivery deadlines for the designers showing on the
Italian and French runways mean that the later their shows are previewed,
the less likely it is that their clothes will arrive in store in time for
the new season. So, postponing the rest of the shows, to bring them in line
with New York's new starting dates next February, is not an option.
The Americans claim that they are reacting to an increasing disadvantage, as
their European rivals continue to bring their start dates forward every
year.
Not so, the British Fashion Council says. If the schedule of London Fashion
Week, already seen as the poor cousin in terms of budgets and big-name
designers, is cut down any further, the council fears that the glossy
cavalcade of buyers and trend-hunters will regard the capital as a waste of
time and energy, and transfer their Louis Vuitton luggage directly from New
York to Milan.
Nor is it likely that New York, which fought hard to move from last in the
series to first, would agree to London grabbing the opening slot.
The threat comes just as London appeared to be regaining its style
credentials. The city. long regarded as a launchpad for bright young
designers who are inevitably lured abroad, such as John Galliano, Gareth
Pugh and Alexander McQueen, has seen a return of its biggest names, with
Vivienne Westwood Red Label, for example, recently showing in the UK for the
first time in ten years.
Harriet Quick, fashion features director at Vogue, said that the New York
offensive could spell disaster for British fashion: “The energy in London is
really good. Designers are coming back after the exodus of five years ago.
Vivienne Westwood Red, Emporio Armani ... we can't give up on that now.
London has always been bumped around, and it is up to the British Fashion
Council and the London designers to be very strong and fight for the full
length of time.”
One option, that the two shows overlap each other, is unworkable, according to
Hilary Riva, chief executive of the British Fashion Council: “A show is a
major financial investment for a designer and its viability depends on
achieving a skilled production team and cast as well as the appropriate
audience. [This] would leave London seriously under-resourced.”
Both Paris and Milan have backed the British Fashion Council's proposal of a
four-day compromise that would accommodate New York and London, without
pushing Paris too late.
However, as New York Fashion Week kicked off the hunt for “the next big thing”
yesterday, with the first previews of the Spring 2009 collections, the
Americans refused to budge.
Steven Kolb, executive director of the Council of Fashion Designers of
America, supported by a spectrum of star designers, such as Diane Von
Furstenberg, said: “American editors, buyers and show producers have, for
some time now, expressed concern and asked that the shows return to the
second week of the month.
“Over the course of the last ten years, New York Fashion Week has
progressively been pushed earlier and earlier as a response to the dates in
Europe being set first, and New York has to react to those dates.”
Despite two years of talks between the Council of Fashion Designers, the
British Fashion Council, La Fédération Française in Paris and Camera
Nazionale Della Moda in Milan, the Big Four have failed to find a solution.
Mr Kolb said: “We remain always willing to share new ideas and consider other
options, but for now we are committed to the second Friday rule.”
However, Lucy Yeomans, editor of Harpers Bazaar, was still hopeful that a
compromise could be reached. She said: “All the representatives from the
different fashion capitals are getting together during London Fashion Week
to try and resolve the situation, so hopefully London will get the time it
most definitely deserves.
“Given the extraordinary legacy of British designers who have shown in the
capital it is absolutely crucial that London continues to thrive.”
Until then, expect much sharpening of stilettos. The world of high gloss and
glamour could be about to get ugly.
EXCITING NEW TALENTS THREATEN OLD GUARD
The annual marathon of the world’s catwalk shows kicked off in low-key style
in New York yesterday. Though it is still dominated by the big-brand names
such as Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan, New York does boast some exciting new
talents. One of the youngest and hottest designers on the New York circuit
is Alexander Wang, whose slouchy knitwear and kooky daywear make a
refreshing alternative to the overly commercial designers on the calendar.
Another hotly anticipated show is Rodarte. Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s
bewitching collections (cobweb sweater dresses and fairytale concoctions of
tulle) always guarantee a front row of international powerhouses.
Next up is London, known as a launchpad for edgy young designers. One of the
most anticipated shows during London Fashion Week is Peter Pilotto. Pilotto
and Christopher De Vos, the designers behind the brand, are showing for
their third season next week. Expect the collection to be rich in colour and
print.
Another label causing excitement is Meadham Kirchoff. Graduates of Central
Saint Martins College of Art and Design, Edward Meadham and Daniel Kirchoff
describe their style as “aggressive, feminine, sharp and sophisticated”.
Milan, which follows hot on the heels of London, is the place to see fake tans
and fashion bling, but it’s not all neck-plunging evening dresses. One of
the less well-known labels to look out for this year is Kinder. The head
designer, Paolo Aggugini, trained at Central St Martins, worked for John
Galliano, Vivienne Westwood and Paul Smith and was head designer at Versace.
it’s a roll call that should ensure success. His aesthetic is a
self-proclaimed marriage of Coco Chanel and Sid Vicious.
Kristian Aadnevik, the Norwegian designer, whose designs are based on a blend
of the gothic and the angelic, should also be worth a look. Aadnevik worked
for Alexander McQueen and recently caught the eye of Donatella Versace,
becoming her latest protégé.
The four weeks round off with Paris, still the grand dame of the fashion show
circuit and still the place the fashion industry watches most closely. One
of the most eagerly awaited anticipated shows is that by Giambattista Valli.
The former creative director at Emanuel Ungaro, Valli is a designer
gathering pace on the international market. The A-listers love his shoes and
bags, while his cocktail dresses are some of the most sumptuous on the
catwalk. Victoria Beckham has named him as one of her favourite designers
(but don’t let that put you off).
Another name to watch out for is David Szeto. The Canadian-born designer
doesn’t actually show on the catwalks but his collections (mostly comprising
deftly cut dresses and draping to enhance the female body) are a sellout in
the world’s most exclusive department stores, from Harvey Nichols and
Matches to Barneys in New York.
