This is the simplest of ideas, but when the crab meat is chilled and the celery leaves are perky and vivid green, plucked from the centre of a bunch, it makes a wonderful summer first course.

Serves 4 as a starter

Juice and zest of 1 lemon

1½ tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

1 bulb fennel

4 handfuls of young celery leaves, plus a few tender inner stems

400g white crab meat, chilled

Mayonnaise, toast and lemon quarters

In a mixing bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, zest and olive oil. Add a good sprinkle of salt and pepper. Remove the wispy fronds from the top of the fennel bulbs and keep to one side. Discard any damaged or tough layers from the fennel bulb, then slice as thinly as you can — the closer you get to wafers, the better. Toss immediately with the lemon and oil. Add the celery leaves and crab meat, then gently toss again. Divide the salad between 4 bowls. Sprinkle a few fennel fronds on top. Eat with mayonnaise, toast and maybe a sprinkle more lemon juice.

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