We used to spend summer, Christmas and Easter holidays either in Gloucestershire with one granny, or in Wales with the other.

Staying at my grandmother's pink-washed house in Wales, despite being miles from anywhere, always seemed to be celebratory.

Her Texan background meant that her kitchen was equipped with an old-fashioned waffle iron, so it was never a question of if we were going to have waffles, maple syrup and salty, streaky Welsh bacon for breakfast, but on which morning.

Despite being the waffle champion, I was almost as addicted to Granny Jean's hot ham. The meat would simmer for hours before being spread with a concoction of Colman's mustard, muscovado sugar and cloves. This was my favourite job.

Once the ham went into the oven, attention would turn to the Cumberland sauce, a heady concoction of port, orange zest and spices.

This for me was the best part of the meal, although being expensive to make it was strictly rationed.

Recently, I have discovered an alternative that is every bit as good but not nearly as expensive. Fresh peaches, some spice and a touch of rum make up the magic.

It pairs remarkably well with the ham and is an adaptation of a recipe that I found in a second-hand cookbook.

This is a wonderful way to use the last of the summer's peaches and makes this joint really special. We normally allow 100g of ham a head which, sliced thin, gives us plenty.

If you love cold ham, buy a bigger joint and enjoy it for the whole week. So get cooking, say goodbye to one season and toast the coming of a new one.

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